-
Antsiranana or Diego-Suarez is the capital of the Diana region, in the far north of Madagascar. The city is the country's third-biggest port and plays an important economic role in the region. Here, tourism takes centre stage because the city and the region are amongst the most visited parts of the island.
The city bears the name of Diogo Soares, the Portuguese navigator who visited the bay in the 1500s. The city was once a pirate stronghold which is now home to more than 100,000 inhabitants. Less well-known that its bigger counterpart in Rio de Janeiro, Diego-Suarez Bay is nevertheless the second biggest bay in the world.
The city of Diego-Suarez is located at a strategic crossroads and the surrounding area was once occupied by the French who based troops there in 1885. The city then underwent a huge expansion due to the industry supporting the military presence.
In 1942, the British captured Antsiranana, which was under occupation by Vichy France, as part of Operation Ironclad. The keys to the city were returned to France at the end of the Second World War and then, in 1960, to the country itself when Madagascar was granted its independence.
There is a legend around the city of Diego-Suarez and nobody knows if it's an invention or based on a true story. In the 17th century, a republic named Libertalia is said to have been founded in the Antsiranana area by Captain Misson and a monk called Carracioli. Whether myth or actual history, this utopian republic was open to all and its citizens were free men, whether pirates or freed slaves...
Diego-Suarez is a pleasant city with old-fashioned charm. From Place Foch in the city centre to the edge of the ocean, the ageing architecture of its buildings gives the city a relaxed feel.
Around the big central square are the city hall, the post office and the regional tourist office. As you head down Avenue Colbert which opens before you, you'll find a great many hotels and restaurants. The avenue is peaceful during the day but wakes up in late afternoon to the rhythm of the music from the bars and clubs and the party goes on late into the night.
Further down, a few former colonial buildings are quietly ageing on the seafront. My advice would be to carry on until you reach the pretty Place Joffre which overlooks the bay and from where there is a fantastic view of the Diego-Suarez Peninsula.
To the east of Place Foch there are little, narrow streets which lead to quieter hotels. From Anse Melville, Diego-Suarez Bay offers a beautiful view in the middle of which sits Nosy Lonjo, the bay's sacred Sugar Loaf.
The city is the ideal departure point for an exploration of the northern coast of Madagascar and its paradise beaches...